The Best of Paris Haute Couture Week

Versace made a return to Paris Haute Couture Week after eight years since 2004. The return highlighted its plan to show that in a recession fashion is still relevant. Versace clearly means business by showing that fashion can survive in a changing world. It’s comeback in couture when the emerging economies e.g. Middle East, Asia and Brazil are investing in luxury clothes. Armani reported a rise in sales for couture of 50% in 2011 compared to 2010 and Valentino's couture sales rose 80%. Yet it’s also paying attention to the other end of the market due to its successful collaboration with H&M. (Long may it continue)

The intimate Atelier Versace show at the Ecole des Beaux Arts had stars such Cameron Diaz, Diane Kruger, Abbie Cornish, and Anna Dello Russo in attendance. Instead of walking down the runway, a supermodel filled (Karlie Kloss, Lindsey Wixson, Arizona Muse, Karmen Pedaru, and Josephine Skriver) were among those who showcased the 15-look collection on a presentation platform.

The collection was signature Versace, recognizably sophisticated with its silhouettes accentuating the beauty of a woman’s figure with a dramatic glamazonian twist. It had highlights of the mermaid theme SS12 Prêt-à-Porter and the bold tones in Versace for H&M.

I was enchanted by the daring and beautiful designs. Versace mastered elegance with corseted metallic glittery gowns packed with high slits, sheer detailing and lace but with a 3D futuristic look.  The corseted pieces, led by Kloss, had sheer panels, gold metal insets, armoured plastics, high shine and geometric details. Such a sharp contrast, but it worked. The cutouts, heavily textural feel, and architectural details were eye catching. I can’t imagine seeing many on the red carpet. Gaga perhaps? There were hot orange and lime mini dresses, floor sweeping grey dresses and bodysuits with jackets to keep things interesting. I thought the armoured shoes were outstanding. Sometimes transforming themselves into thigh-high boots. Every piece presented was teamed with high ponytails, seductive smoky eye and nude lip which perfected every look.

                                                   

My favourite? Hard to choose as I’m in love with every structure, curve, bone and fabric. I love the intricate detailing on the gold one that Arizona Muse wore. Love the last fire-orange gown, the sheer fabric is remarkable.  But I’m drawn to the short acidic yellow piece that only good legs can sport. So inspiring. I bought a structured neon neoprene dress from ASOS BLACK a while back that I have not worn. I will now.

Other Notable Mentions

Christian Dior was complete U turn to Versace, more of a classic old Hollywood look for real women with real figures. The collection seemed more sensible: floor length gowns, pencil and peplum skirts, organza 50’s cocktail dresses. It featured voluminous sheer skirts, elbow-length gloves, and houndstooth separates in basic tones with embroidered subtle beading. Gaytten did a good job but I missed the drama of Galliano. Dior heritage was noticeable- The 1947 New Look Bar jacket came in black and white. Karlie Kloss was in my fourth favourite look, a sheer light white puff sleeved organza dress with detailed black beading. Loved the simple understated tulle ball-gowns in purple, nude and black plus the final red look. My two favourites are the two below. The gradual change of tone is magical. I WANT!

Amy Winehouse was Jean Paul Gaultier's muse and like Amy the collection didn't fail to disappoint. It was a fitting tribute with a vibrant pop culture feel teamed with an acapella quartet. The theatrical show had cigarette-smoking retro pin-up models sporting beehives, winged 50s eyeliner and silk veils. Some were more masculine with draped jackets and trousers. Nothing had been overlooked. My favourites? The tough structured bustiers and cone bras coupled with bright loose trenches and embellished veils.

Elie Saab's collection brought good old fashioned romance to Paris and was a reminder that the Oscars are just around the corner. Fairy tale inspired, candy coloured (we'll see loads of that this summer), embellished vintage looking dresses was a sweet interpretation of couture. The gowns had splashes of shimmer, tulle flowers and leafs with plentiful crystal embellishment. Yet every piece appeared weightless. The colour palette consisted of cotton candy, peaches, power blues, peppermints. Saab and Versace were the only collections that I wanted every single look.

                                                                                                                 

     

Favourite individual looks

Chanel ( I always said i needed a cocoon coat)

Valentino

          

Giambattista Valli

Valentino

Drawing inspiration from the Cookie Monster, Chewbacca and Yaks

Vogue December 2011

The awkward moment when your sister counts your coats in disgust and another fur one is delivered through the post at that precise moment. I admit I probably have too many coats. But its not the quantity that bothers me. It's the diversity. I have fifteen in total (blazers, coats, leathers, capes, sheepskin, faux fur, vintage real fur, chiffon, yeti, denim, tribal, fringe)and I still have a trench, feather, cocoon, tweed and a tuxedo coat on my hit list this year. Plus I saw a gorgeous flannel jacket in Rokit, Covent Garden on Friday. Sigh.


Anyway, my attention is on faux fur today, fur without the guilt as I call it. More importantly: The shaggy yeti coat. I wish I was an eskimo...so I could wear it all day long. I love them. The Yeti had inspired the Sixties and Seventies and was seen recently in December's UK Vogue. Whilst I have a Kate Moss Topshop shaggy number in grey, I love the white monster look. Very reminiscent of Isabel Marant so I bought the Romwe version. Teamed with mahoosive lennon round sunglasses I was channelling daily my inner Janis Joplin.

Romwe Faux Fur Coat

Giles Yeti Coat

Fur and animal skins have dominated the runways season upon season. Just Cavalli's long camel flavoured yeti piece and Chanel  looks, F/W 2010-2011. Models rocked huge beehives with yeti trousers and the classic tweed jacket was coupled with shaggy rims. Whilst I was loving the iceberg purses and shaggy rucksacks, copying this look precisely would make me look like a huge yak. In the Fall/Winter 2011 season,  I adored Gucci, Furstenburg and Prada's vibrant of emerald, ruby and sapphire toned furs teamed with 1970's dresses and blouses. Frida Gianni, Gucci's creative director displayed hairy fur stoles, thigh slit chiffon dresses and a strong lip. It epitomised the Gucci woman: dramatic, powerful and sexy. Gucci continued its love affair with fur with Mary J Blige in November's Elle. The jewelled toned furs of Marios Schwab and Dolce & Gabbana's was to some too much Elmo and Bigfoot. For me, the yeti pinks of D&G and Topshop are too much but I adore other rich colours such as the below mustard.

The Fall 2011/2012 season focused on ingraining fur into pieces: fur collars both lapel and peter pan to fur cuffs. Total fur took a bit of a backseat. But fear not, 2012 Spring trends include pastels, candy cane colours and whites.  So why not add a bit of texture and luxury and incorporate a shaggy coat into that look.

Carine Roitfeld a connoisseur of effortless chic, shows just how to do it. She reminds us that shaggy yeti fur coats are a voluminous key piece and needs only to be accessorized with a heel and black tights. Teaming boxy faux fur with sleek skinny leather trousers/cigarette pants and sunglasses like Mossy and Erin Wasson gives a simple contrast. I wear my white version with just a House of Harlow Necklace or fedora hat. As a sufferer from chunky thigh syndrome....im a firm beliver that the bigger the jacket the thinner the thigh.

 

I'm pretty sure investing in a shaggy can add to any look. Glam rock: team with metallic or white tees, thigh highs and boots. Bohemian Chic: vintage fringed kimonos,velvet leggings, turban headbands and wine stained lips. Very early 80's Vivienne Westwood. Luxurious: rich reds mixed with brocades,embellishments and floaty midis. Day time: acid wash jeggings, brogues or cream converse. Anyone can look shaggalicious.

Fifty percent of magazine readers thought Kelis's mongolian yeti coat was a huge fashion mistake. Whilst seventy percent thought Beyonce's deep red Cavalli yeti was a fashion faux paux. Bleeergh what the hell do they know?!