Trend Report for Autumn and Winter 2012/2013

The Fashion weeks were full of contradictions...exaggerated and slim silhouettes, jewel tones and pastels, colourblocking, metallics and winter whites. There was head-to-toe dressing galore, military looks, minimalist tailoring; and Asian influenced pieces. Designers layered sheer panels with opaque fabrics.As seen at Peter Som, J.Mendel and Vera Wang. Gurung and Schwab incorporated divine head to toe barely there pieces into its looks. Velvets, liquid golds, reds, midnight navys and olives with mad hats,exposed shoulders and thigh splits are a safe bet. We saw the resurgence of the 1990’s mini-backpack on Chanel’s catwalks and the return of the suit at 3.1 Phillip Lim and at J. Crew. Key pieces for a fall wardrobe? Anything with a high neckline like the rolonecks seen at Erdem , Marios Schwab, Acne, Pringle. Statement tapered Trousers in a colourful jacquard or print worn over a pointed courts pair of pumps. Get an animal knit asap, horse, owl, and tiger versions were spotted this month at Altuzarra, Burberry, and Kenzo. Kate Bosworth looked cute in a Burberry owl motif jumper. It’s about accented fur: Fur stoles, fur caplets, fur peplums, fur sleeves in blush and punchy hues like Blumarine, Mulberry, McQueen and Siriano. Finish the looks with big voluminous bouffants reminiscent of the Sixties or sleek low ponytails. As seen at Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, and Oscar de la Renta. Dewy makeup and Crimson lips will continue from 2011 but incorporate with white eyeshadows to make those eyes pop.  Jewels will be in the hair, around the eyes like at Miu Miu and over the eyebrows like at Chanel. So no one obvious trend. One thing’s for sure, in an economic downturn it’s about slow fashion- Quality genderless, timeless and seasonless items. That means either simple staple wardrobe builders or really special pieces. Here’s a few obvious trends, you have 6 months to collect your pieces so hurry up!

ZigZags

Take inspiration from the zig zag originator Missoni. On the runways, House of Holland and Meadham Kirchhoff energized the audience with techni-colour zigs and zags across dresses, cardies, furs and sequins. Miu Miu’s manly jewel toned 1970s suits were drenched in the pattern. At Kenzo zig-zag patterns in autumn hues of army green and burgundy were delicious.  I’m sticking to jewellery or relaxed knit accessories accented in ziggadey-zags.  What will you do?

Puffers!

EEK! I know what you’re thinking.... (Horrible Flashbacks) puffers are shapeless and too 1990s.  And you don’t ski so what’s the need. Yet fitted padded jackets are a next season must have.  Now I’m not saying you have to go overboard like Pilotto’s printed jacket (Although the little frilled hems were pretty), Kane’s long lean coat or Roksanda’s exaggerated puffer. But DKNY and Burberry’s cropped jackets were beautifully inspiring. Burberry’s puffer aviator bombers are a piece I’m already fantasising over. Quilted alternatives for the less brave are equally as desirable as seen at Acne and Saunders. See also Marios Schwab, JW Anderson.

 

Brocade Beauty

Banish those cold winters with a rich luxe fabric. Models sauntered down the catwalks in brocade, especially in Milan. Let the main piece do the talking and keep the rest minimalist.  Rebecca Minkoff channelled the brocade look with separates breaking it up with a biker jacket, Carven embraced it with box-pleated miniskirts and there were swirling brocades on a blood red peplum jacket at Lanvin. Then there was Jason Wu’s collection with golden brocade inserts on jackets and illusion dress. They were all beauties. However, you could have more fun with the ornate trend. You could courageously sport head to toe metallic brocades ensembles like Rag and Bone and Proenza Schouler. Brocade would look outstanding on an Investment Trouser next autumn. Check out Michael van der Ham, Temperley, Osman.  And Gucci and Balmain for some serious opulence also. 

Girls In Glasses

Mmmm Okay I’m a bit done with this one. Ever since men started thinking they were Seth Cohen from the O.C channelling Clark Kent. And then came the boring copycats of  Tinie Tempah. But then again why should boys have all the fun? High end nerd models at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui and Vivienne Westwood convinced me to dip my toes into this trend. It’ll look best if you incorporate this accessory into your whole look...soo thats buttoned up shirts and preppy layering. If your eyesight is less than perfect, then buy thick rimmed heavy framed glasses. If you have 20/20 vision join in on the fun with some fakes.

Purple reins

Purples in all of its incarnations will be hot. From Prada, Gucci and Erdem’s prints to Peter Pilotto, Fendi , Ferretti and Balenciaga’s tones.  Whether you go for a grown-up look ala the amethyst chainmail dress at YSL teamed with a deep berry lip or a younger one like Christopher Kane’s leopard creation.  Purple hues will be safe hit. Wine was the standout colour in Alexander Wang’s  collection. It was seen on outerwear to leather adorned trousers and skirts at Cynthia Rowley, Richard Chai, Tibi, and Peter Som. What about pastel purples? Lavender.....It may be a shade associated with spring/summer season, but lavender and pink will dominate this autumn. These tones were teamed with blocks of black to blend pastels i.e. Mulberry and Christopher Kane. This is a perfect way to translate spring's pastels into fall. Or you could team with whites like at Jil Sander.

Cape Town

I personally love capes the more dramatic and exaggerated, the better. That’s probably why I liked Galliano’s billowing chiffon capes. There will probably be lots in a military theme but I prefer simple elegant capes like Valentino’s. Zara always do amazing ones....I bought a timeless camel coat one years back. I noticed a fringed caped dress in their SS12 lookbook..sooo grab it when you can. I’m lusting after Vicktor and Rolf’s cape sleeved lapel suit. They took a classic suit and played with its proportions-fantastic.  Capes look great at Tom Ford (Gwyneth Paltrow at the Oscars-a masterpiece), Miu Miu,  Comme des Garcons, Givenchy.

Fall florals

Summer's florals were continuing to bloom on the winter runways... even on shoes. In a contrast to spring, blooms will be darker and edgier like Kane’s deep purple leather trimmed dress.  Keep it graphic, bold and in moody autumn hues like Peter Pilotto.  Giles and Erdem wowed with dreamy florals on demure ladylike silhouettes or find pieces with flower detailing like the fuchsia floral appliqué at Temperley London.  Choose your shape and fabric wisely. Opt for plush materials and below the knee hemlines to remind people its winter season. Check out Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane, Suno, Maarten Van Der Horst and Michael van der Ham.

Don’t skirt the around the issue

Now 2012 is all about investing in trousers but there’s still room for the skirt. Skater Skirts: Just about flattering on everyone.....so embrace with woollen ribbed tights, cozy knits and humungous snoods. Layer it up. As seen at Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. Big umbrella Skirts aka the Mad Men Skirt/Ballerina length skirts...keep it fun flirty and feminine. ASOS already have a few. Where else? Roksanda Ilincic, Giles,Mary Katrantzou and McCartney. The Longer Skirt: I’m talking really long...to the ankle like Saunders, Topshop, JW Anderson.  If you're tall and slender follow this look. Otherwise it may swamp your body.

Dip Dyed Hair

Ombre hair has been popular for years. I rock this look myself as I lazily don’t want to dye my roots but I also love the subtle blend of blonde and brown...it just looks effortless. Forget SJP, Drew Barrymore and Nicola Roberts’ lush red and blonde ombre hair, in 2012 two tone hair will reach a whole new level.  Well last season Thakoon turned heads with painted hair, as did Julien MacDonald where hair was slicked back in red and white paint. But Prada brought the trend back with extreme dye jobs, fading from deep brown to bleached blonde. Pringle, Kirchhoff, Haider Ackermann, and Jean Paul Gaultier all went for rainbow shades. Just how far are you willing to go?

Hips don’t lie.

Huge exaggerated hip lines to narrow that waist, without the exercise, will carry on from spring. From Katrantzou and Holland’s stiff fit and flare dresses to David Koma and Nicole Fahri jackets it’s all about accentuating that hourglass figure. The peplum was affixed to the hip, waist and even sculptural suiting was seen at Berardi. You don’t have to sport peplums in dark winter shades. J. Mendel created winter-white jackets with peplum pops and Jil Stuart had light hued ruffled trimmed tops.  Mix up textures also: the Fur-enhanced peplum vest from Jason Wu (double trend) or Burberry Prorsum’s tweed oversized hip pockets. I’m digging them all. Following Zac Posen and rocking retro peplum dresses is a little safe. Keep it fresh like Peter Som and pair a peplum top with cigarette. Where else?  Marni, McCartney, Diesel Black Gold, Lanvin,  Bottega Veneta (divine petal peplum velvet gowns) and McQueen.

March in Military

This masculine trend invaded the catwalks in London. A range of designers were referencing this look: MCQ, Max Mara, Moschino and Burberry. Hilfiger took military jackets and paired with matching green skirts, skinny pants and leather caps. Victoria Beckham constructed body conscious khaki dresses and python-lined trench coats. A. Wang incorporated military aspects into leather trench coats. It looked stunning on Gisele....but I’m sceptical it would suit the average joe. You risk looking like Morpheus from the Matrix. I loved the mature sexed up interpretations from Topshop Unique and Max Mara-especially Topshop’s green overcoat with a bra and cap. I’m not a massive fan of the military trend but that’s because high street versions are sometimes too literal. Keep it to the detailing with brass bold buttons or the colour palette. Thats army green, mushrooms, stoney greys and browns. Or wear a military coat with a frilly ruffle neck collar to femininise the look.

Leatherssss 

It’s all about wearing leather but not all over leather. If you buy one type of trouser next autumn make it leather. From Pringle‘s caramel coloured, Aquascutum’s mustard hued, Topshop’s olive trousers or Proenza Schouler‘s wide leg pants...there’s something for everyone.  At Acne, Derek Lam and Helmut Lang they came in coloured crops. J.W. Anderson showed shiny patent leather suits. If you’re not daring enough maybe try elbow long leather gloves or leather sleeved coats. Or wear black leather bondage belts and harnesses-they popped up at Monique Lhuillier and Herve Leger.  They were crazy great. Avoid being overtly sexy, show the world you mean serious business and keep the look mysterious with high necklines and leather bottoms.

Exaggerate everything

My favourite silhouette, over-sized, was ridiculously chic this season. Fabrics were loosened up on many catwalks just like Fall 2011. Many even topped Stella McCartney’s Fall 2011 collection. Moschino and Jil Sander’s cocoon shapes in various degrees of pouf were sooo graceful. The Celine collection features an abundance of oversized silhouettes with exaggerated proportions. Topshop Unique followed suit with oversized dungarees and exaggerated sleeves at Som and Schouler. Roomy bell-shaped dresses and coats at Marchesa and Calvin Klein were also charming. And Comme des Garcons? No, it isn't wearable, but was an astonishing collection.  I adored neoprene stiff cocoon pieces like Lanvin.  I would wear every cocoon piece I could find, if I could. Zara has a lush cocooned white coat in stores now. Think big over small look. So the key is to add a waist belt to a cocoon coat or contrast voluminous pieces with a tight separate to avoid looking like a blob.

I like my money right where I can see it....hanging in my closet

Mmmmm that exquisite jewel-encrusted fabrics finale of the Dolce&Gabbana SS12 collection. Crystal embellishments, shimmering mirrors and beads were fashioned into inspired 1950s silhouettes of lace shifts and corseted bodysuits. What is it with embellishments; we all seem to be into them right now. Around 63 extravagant bustiers were decorated in gold and silver, or encrusted with large hand-appliqued multicoloured vibrant gemstones. Apparently 625 per bodice! The finale was inspired by fireworks but was a tribute to their iconic shows of the 1990s. The Fall 1992 collection looked back at the Hollywood starlets and voluptuous pin ups from the 1950s. Madonna made D&G’s bejewelled corset an instantly iconic piece back in 1991. The designers recycled this look adding outrageous bright colours (fuchsias, sapphires and emeralds) and a change of design. Well, I want to dazzle like Bianca Balti and be dripping in jewels like Eva Mendes....so the best I could find was this bold little ASOS situation.

Ring lust....Rings rings rings....they’re like hair slides I’m pretty sure I’ve bought hundreds yet I can never find them. With regards to rings...there tends to be a new one on my hand once a week. Before you say you don’t understand. Well I don’t understand either. I’m hoping one day there’s a stash somewhere lying around somewhere. I don’t think I’ll ever be ‘finished’ with this piece.

Anyone that knows me knows I’m a magpie for a bit of gold. Any ho have wanted a YSL arty oval ring for quite a while. As seen on Alexa Chung. There unique and pretty. What’s not to like.  Even if it wasn’t YSL and I found this at a market, I would buy it in a heartbeat. It was £200-£455 and it sold out pretty fast. And I don’t have a guy that’s going to buy me pretty things. I joke. Grrrrr. It was either buy it (not really an option) or starve to death. And anyone who knows me knows that I would happily live without heating, electricity, and sit in a darkened room as long as my wardrobes being added too. I think my limit is no water. I mean a girls gotta wash.....and I guess drink water. So instead of me going down that route....ill just bagsy a fake imitation. Which is waay more satisfying. I bought a bright turquoise one and then a week later realised how pretty the red one was. And bought that to. But there’s a range of colours from cobalt blue,turquoise, red, beige etc. Take your pick. These rings are about two years old...sooo yes late on the bandwagon. There are others including the Arty Dots and arty enamel. All are pretty. Im still waiting for mine to arrive...sooo excited. I might even post a picture of my hands in it. God, I must be excited.

My new love is this charming Topshop tweed vanity case. I’ve wanted a round train case/hat box of quite while. I’m obsessed with the 1920s-40s.....Its more orient express rather than a southwestern Victoria to Croydon train. But I’m not bothered.  I’ve seen some even better vintage ones on ebay, in Camden and Portobello but there always too expensive or falling apart. It’s rare to find one in good condition and I didn’t want to risk it falling apart. The topshop accessory is vintage looking and its mustard rim will add warmth to any outfit. My sister asked where I was going to need this. And My response... ‘I don’t need to be going anywhere to need this’

Channel your inner Janis Joplin and John Lennon and wear round sunglasses. Round sunglasses I hear you cry?  Tis a little unusual, I admit and most people think their ugly. This for those who have an individual style or for those who don’t care what people think. A notable devotee is Mary-Kate Olsen sporting styles by Marni and Chanel. Round sunglasses won’t be as simple as in 2009. Frames and lens will be in different hues in 2012 as seen at Viktor & Rolf and Erdem. I’m sticking to the black lens, put if you have a paler skin tone, try gradient brown ones or even pink. Try vintage or charity stores for yours. Asos have a few plastic frame ones.mmm a bit too 60s for me. The tortoise shell ones are adorable. If you like mine I bought gold rim Almost Famous Sunglasses from the cobra shop in LA! They were only $24. Love Love love love love. Apparently they make cheeks look chubby. Oooops. I think there the perfect accessory to an off duty outfit.

The Chanel boucle tweed jacket gives a touch of class to any look. It’s the epitome of class, sophistication, beauty and of course a good investment piece. Vintage Chanel boucle jackets are on my radar.  But unless I spend my savings away...a replica will have to do for now. Boucle jackets and suits, in pinks, creams and metallics are everywhere. But I’m sticking to this Topshop Grosgrain collarless jacket. This crop jacket fits really well ...it’s a shame they didn’t do a patching pair of shorts. Whether I dress it up or team with my vintage Rokit denim jumpsuit (taking inspiration from Linda Evangelista in Paris in the 80s) a Chanel-esque jacket this year is a winner.

Fashion Week Favourites

McQueen! It was purely for women who are ready to make a futuristic style statement. Models were awash with ruffled hoof- shoes, voluminous frothy tiers of heavy ruffles and giant mirrored visors. It was mesmerising. Dresses were done in fuchsia and blush hues, sumptuous ostrich feathers and furs with floral appliqué embedded in the fabric.

Oscar de la Renta's collection was his usual ladylike aesthetic with a vintage 1960s twist. Imagine playing dress up in Jackie Kennedy's wardrobe or even the Grace Kellys. Models were dripping in jewels: jewel print graphics and jewel accents. These clothes were something precious. We were treated to metallic adorned classic boucle suits and sheath dresses, glittering cashmere polonecks and tailored circle skirts. The pastel hue coloured palette of rose, teal and icy blues kept the look youthful. Looks were polished off with bejeweled belts and shoes, teardrop pearl earrings, antique brooches, and satin diamante headbands creating a faux bob. Then came my favourites...Oscar’s frothier creations.  Full-skirted ballerina dresses and voluminous ball gowns in both slate blue and bubblegum pink. The gowns ranged from crushed, pleated velvet and beaded gowns to fairytale tulle draped gowns. Arizona donning the blue tulle dress and Joan Smalls olive showstopper with an embellished lace bodice and asymmetric taffeta skirt, were simply stunning. Every look was head to toe perfection. I was hoping someone would be bold enough at the Oscars to wear one of these gowns but have suspicion Michelle Obama or SJP will instead.

Marchesa’s collection was fit for a princess and totally red carpet worthy.....or for the rest of us....an extravagant wedding paid for on credit. Probably my favourite show this season. Dare I say it...it was very Mcqueen. I love drama and statement clothing and Marchesa’s 19th century collection exuded the dramatic craftsmanship I love. As always they leave me breathless. The palette was a champagne dream; a mixture of golds, silvers, bronzes and creams. I adored the mixture of heavy and delicate textures and use of the usual lavish tulle, embroidery, lace, feathers and sheer overlays. I thought the gold cut out gladiator sandals and sheer jewelled tulle socks teamed with slipper-esque almond shaped courts were a beautiful touch. I often overuse the term stunning but every look fits that description.  Swirling and leaf appliqué, feathered hems and tulle mullet hems, melted detailing upon sheer nude bodies and fun light flapper cocktail dresses- all divine. The red embroidered detailed dress with a voluminous skirt (similar to Valentinos), the gold brocade similar to Beyonce’s Mcqueen 2010 and Stacy Kieblers gold shine floor length gown. The fit-and-flare silhouettes of full skirts and floral appliqué bodices in golds, crimsons, and teals, would suit anyone and let’s not forget the mermaid style shimmery gowns (although I’d have to hack off both thighs to look good in one.)The darker edgier gowns were equally romantic. And what about that swan pouffy gown which swept the toes of the front row. I want them all.I.Cannot.Choose

 

   

It was Raf Simons' last show at Jil Sander. Since 2005, he has beautifully explored understated tailoring and contemporary minimalism. There was a broad colour palette from pastels to brights and blacks with a flash of high shine-everything was amazingly wearable in this collection. There were beautiful navy off the shoulder dresses, boudoir worthy bustier silk slips and sculptural tentish coats. His final show had models floating in classic retro ladylike silhouettes- my favourite being the buttonless cocoon coats in candied pink. I also loved the nightgown cover ups like the draped wrap coat worn by Ekaterina Petkova. The modern and elegant finish continued in the second part of the collection with poppy red and navy cocoon coats, loosely draped silk dresses in glossy blacks and pale greys. It was stunning send off.

Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum displayed British timeless pieces that accentuated a woman’s curves. Everything was cozy and classic with warm colours such as burnt mustards and greens, plums, burgundy, and browns with velvety and corduroy textures. Perfect for roaming the Yorkshire Dales or fitting for the streets of London. The faux rain whilst models walked with open umbrellas was a magnificent touch. Covetable pieces such as egg shaped sleeved outerwear, tough trench-coats (loved the heritage tweed inserts), cropped and long bomber jackets, woollen and tailored blazers. There was no sign of the trouser but there were velvet, tweed and striped skirts with large ruffles and Peplum hems galore. It was all in the detailing...adding femininity to outerwear - oversized maxi pockets; ruffle details, floral peplums, owl motifs, and ruched bow tie belts. I need that lush final regal velvet coat sported by Cara Delevingne in my life. But I have a feeling it’ll be in Kate Middleton’s life sooner.

Etro utilized the paisley print and mosaic art on menswear-like trousers, sheer fit-and-flare dresses with leather peplums and blouses, and fishtailed silhouette velvet gowns. Many gorgeous pieces including the geometric and burgundy ones-the showstopping black body hugging gown with mosaic tattoo-esque velvet was my favourite.

McQ debuted military-inspired ensembles in olive green with embroidered appliqués, scottish tartans and fur neck collars with bagel-shaped buns for its first ever fashion week.  Burton continued McQueen aesthetic on the leafy catwalk-as usual it was rather menancing. However, it was the evening wear that caught my attention. The lace mesh under a sweetheart necklined dress accessorized with elbow gloves and leather belts and chains. The red velvet ones were beautiful.  I’m drooling over the leaf velvet coat coverup with the black tulle flower stick-ons dress.

I’m a sucker for dark vamp lips especially those accentuated by eyebrow less models as seen at Gucci. Dark moody hues, jewel velvety tones, black feathers with a hint of green, jacquard and tapestry textiles dominated, it was very Morticia Addams.  Looks were gothic, dark romantic and seductive all at the same time created with lace-up blouses, sheer high slit tulle gowns, and capes. I can see Gwyneth Paltrow in every one of these. There were pyjama inspired looks with patterned palazzo pants and baggy trousers emoting a casual luxe vibe. There was the occasional peep of colour -I loved that hot plunging green velvety dress. And what do you think of that feather dress?I bet Anna dello Russo would wear it to work. As would I....if my bank balance was larger.

Bora Aksu and Holly Fulton’s show was amongst some of my favourites at LFW. Aksu's inspiration is drawn from The Vivian Girls in Henry Darger's "In the Realms of the Unreal" The contrasting pale shades with energetic dip-dyed orange, red and hot pink colours and black detailed dresses. The delicate prints were inspired by 50s wallpaper and tapestries. The usual Bora pinks and powdery grey adult tailoring in the form of playful childlike babydoll shapes, pencil skirts and capes. Fulton is a bit more marmite.....it had a younger spirit. She used 20s geometric art deco prints, bright colours and hand cut butterflies, everywhere teamed with costume jewellery and  hairy bags. Greenhouses prints on rainbow-hued pieces from fuschia pink to a multitude of turquoise tones, made the selection of sleek simple silhouettes shift dresses and fluid separates modern.

Naeem Khan's RTW had me ooo-ing and ahh-ing with nearly every ensemble. Excuse me whilst I faint on the ground. It was simply dazzling. I was captivated by the embellished, heavy beading red carpet worthy gowns which had an Indian-inspired feel. Gowns were relaxed with deep necklines and backs were exposed-they were exquisitely luxurious. Khan’s glittering lineup had pieces emblazoned with paisleys, swirls and Tilakas. This ethnic embroidering and use of graphic hand-painted dot print was flaunted on sparkly caftan dresses, shimmering silver suits and tweed metallic jackets. And there were fringe detailing and ostrich feather skirts too. It may sound too much-but don’t judge until you take a look. 

Whoaaaa. Is what I shout every time Zac Posen has a new show.  Arguably he definitely makes the best gowns. It’s never a question of when will someone wear his pieces it’s who. Wintour, Mario Testino, Brad Gorebski, Dita Von Teese watched with excitement from the front row as the drama unfolded. Posen’s Fall 2012, drew influence from the Far East on his signature stiff hourglass silhouettes. The usual decadent silks, and jacquards came in rich intense jewel tones and restrained soft pastels. But this time the looks included origami folds, Chinoiserie embroidery, kimono draping and obi sashes while furs punctuated and broke up the look. The sculptured eveningwear collection included opulent power suiting with pleated bodices and exaggerated fishtail skirts. Glenn Close’s forest green gown that she wore to the Oscars looked even better gliding down the runway. Coco Rocha ended the show in a godly blue jacquard bustier gown. How amazing are the jaw dropping champagne and blush looks-worn by Tao Okomato and Heather Marks. Pure class.

Now most of the time my favourite fashion shows are completely unwearable. But Rachel Zoe’s lineup delivered a blend of contemporary pieces inspired by 1960s London rock 'n' roll – think Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull. I admit it was nothing ground breaking, but I liked them all...every piece is wardrobe worthy. You’d see this look on the Olsens and Sienna Miller. As expected it was perfectly styled and presented. There was chunky art-deco jewellery, luxe snoods and Russian fur cossacks. Knitted minidresses, tailored menswear-inspired tuxedo suits in jewel-toned velvets and tweeds, oversized shaggy yeti coats plus an effortlessly cool sapphire jumpsuit. LOVED IT.

Prabul Gurung’s show progressed from dark to light (hell to heaven), beginning with all-black looks on brunette models, blues on girls with light brown hair, and the cream and gold finale on blondes. Fabrics were combined with luxe printed silks and embroideries, to an audience of Zoe Saldana  and Coco Rocha. Saldana looked stunning in his green jacket and print pants from Spring.  So many fabrics were in this collection- feathers, furs, satins, neoprene, and micromesh panelling. As well as shiny patent leather, woolly furs, and smooth silks teamed with Gold beetles jewellery or black insect bracelets. His opening looks were dramatic... fit for a powerful businesswoman. Thin, slightly flared trousers were paired with a woollen cape to the black dress with sheer insets was gracefully artistic. Then the neoprene crept in as panelling on sleeveless shifts and coats. The coat with panels of oil spill neoprene print has already worn by Gaga. Highly metallic dresses and electrified blue skull prints were inspired by the paintings of Georgia O’Keefe.  During the final part Gurung turned to shades of white sunny yellow hues and decadent golds. With intricately beaded frocks accented with ostrich feathers, tailored dresses featuring gold leaf panels and floral appliqué and sequins.

J. Mendel said he was inspired by Gaudi’s architecture in Spain. There were a luxury of rich materials, from cashmere, alligator, fur, and silks with sculptural draping and geometric patchwork. Balmain too was spectacular... models were embroidered, beaded and quilted to the max on a background of rich forest green and dark teals. I love the modern take on baroque with opulent gold detailing but still with keeping the usual rock chick attitude. Roksanda Ilincic had striking pieces for every occasion and I loved Osman’s sculptural separates too. Katrantzou as usual every outfit was a standout piece....Always about the print but I LOVE the hips shape and the incorporation of trousers also. That black and white palazzo silk pant and 3d-esque off shoulder bustier. Increds. Always a favourite. Giles’ darkly romantic Victorian collection gave opulence with an eerie edge. Yes those plush gowns were distressed by bullet holes and charred burnmarks. Perhaps it was a little sinister.....but it added intrigue.  It was the soft feminine part of the collection I preferred as he moved from governess (menswear tuxedo looks) to the lady of the house (delicate silky couture formed dresses). Watercolour princess style dresses,skirts were finished with feather trims and burnmarks were lined with gold. Exquisite materials appeared water-stained, there were mythical creature brocade and icy blue tapestry. Enchanting.

Dolce & Gabbana's Sicilian Baroque-inspired collection had it all-grandeur, brocade embroidery, lavish gold ornate embellishments, lace layers of tulle, and even ruffled bloomers. The 75 look show was dazzling, from the chandeliers and floral arrangements to the Italian opera music. Looks were inspired by the Italian Renaissance -delicate lace and velvet dresses and religious motifs, cherubic and tapestry prints,that were dipped in gold. Catholic communion style dresses were armed up with golden details; sheer sections and the church like models sashayed in embroidered black capelets, jewelled headbands and cherub earrings with huge white pearls and black rosettes. Helen Mirren watched in a floral dress from the Spring 2012 collection. Sonam Kapoor too donned in the floral print, accessorizing with a red handbag.

At the Duchess of Cambridge favourite Issa, it was a Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow to Beijing. It contained elements of Russia with mongolian fur and Art Deco liquid gold flapper pieces from China. The classic wrap-style dress was in vivid red and blue paisley prints, there were metallic Ming vase Oriental prints, capes and kimonos.  The head-to-toe print trend was seen on Issa’s leggings and dresses—a touch on the late side and the Gatsby inspired flappers are a season behind.  Nevertheless the collection was impressive as was Tinie Tempah in the front row-yumm. That flowing wrap green maxi will for sure be on Kate Middleton soon but the best look was Ming Xi’s jumpsuit teamed with a lopsided fur Cossack. Sooo cute. I need it in my life.

Few designers gave us a fun flirty collection for the winter yet Moschino, Blumarine, DSquared2 and Lanvin did just that. A Grease Senior high school year was the inspiration behind Dsquared2- a Class of 2013 sign and a band were in the background.  The contemporary and vintage designs had a demure sex appeal. It had a 50s /60s look- each model with their own rebel attitude with bouffant hairstyles, defined eye makeup and multi- colour cropped trousers, candied pencil skirts, mohair jumpers teamed crystal-encrusted heels, fur brooched stoles and raised baseball caps. I loved DSquared2’s story...sooo imaginative.

Blumarine’s Fall 2012 Collection was fun fun fun although I know some found it horrendous. Those Big Bird Mongolian lamb coats (like ones seen at Fendi) cutout LBD’s and that signature leopard-rose prints are not for me. But the urban and exotic metallic looks and mermadi-esque dresses in every colour were OTT and fabulous. The revealing scaly gown, those huge hooped earrings and the hologram high top silver moon booties-simply fearless.

It’s clear Moschino's Fall 2012 woman is all about standing out. So leave the pale hued pieces in the wardrobe.  Sweet short flirty dresses featured fringe detailing, drop-waists, ruffles and feathers. bold outerwear in primary punchy shades screamed it’s party time. The look was 1980′s meets Spanish matadors with'60s silhouettes and military shapes. Styled with giant hoop earrings, cowboy hats, and quilted fanny pack purses with black bow head scarves. A toned down version of Cara’s kitschy final dress would be mindblowing.

Alber Elbaz celebrated his 10th anniversary at Lanvin Elbaz with a technicolour party extravaganza. A luxe array of colourful, confident, edgy pieces. He opened with jewel-hued and bright peplum dresses worked in foam or maybe neoprene that gave structure to peplums,frills and high collars, yet they still remained curve enhancing. Then there was a switch in fabrications to sexy black leathers, golden brocades and metallic lames. There were full playful skirts. Exaggerated coats were clinched at the waist with crystal encrusted jaguar headed belts or draped in fur. Then came the Lanvin dream. It announced itself  with indulgent cocktail party dresses in exuberant water colour and floral prints, lace appliqué  and beading embellishments and ruffle poufs with the looks finished with bright gloves, rainbow shade fur stoles slung over shoulders, and necks garnished with glittering jewels.