Trend Report for Spring/Summer 2015
Spring 2015…Designers truly immersed themselves into the trends, this season showed no room for cautiousness. This Summer was about memories and nostalgia-Seventies and Nineties inspired throwbacks, 17th century pieces also, comebacks from Naomi and Gisele too.
‘Fashion theatre’ and high-tech touches were prevalent-Ralph Lauren’s 4-D virtual runway, Opening Ceremony’s play and Dior 3D mirror venue. What’s surprising is that sports luxe that has been prevalent in the past seasons has taken a back seat. Despite this Roland Mouret, Wang and Carven kept their athletic vibes. SS15 focused on wide flowing and structured silhouettes, brash primary colourings and bold graphic florals, bursts of sugary pastels, and summer whites in silky satins. Sunshine yellow, red, high energy blues and grassy greens were often finished with warrior-worthy accessories.
There was power head-to-toe dressing galore at Balmain, utility looks, rivieria looks; and Japanese influenced pieces. Designers played with soft materials such as tulle and lace usually seen at Couture Week and every textured material under the sun was conveyed. Feathers, embellishments, tassels and fringing. The usual sheer romantic fabrics were seen with suede and spidered lace. Even Joseph incorporated divine head to toe barely there pieces into its looks. Pinks, zigzags, stripes, gingham and earthy tobacco tones with exposed shoulders and elongated hemlines especially midi skirts are a safe bet. We saw the retro resurgence of double denim (eeek!) saddle bags on Gucci catwalks and the return of the neck tie at Saint Laurent and Valentino. Key pieces for a spring wardrobe? Anything fluid and asymmetric like the pieces seen at Prabal Gurung and Rodarte. Focus on a statement 70’s trousers or culotte in a colourful jacquard or print. Accessorize with disco platforms and roman sandals. The love affair with the flare will not go away- Naeem Khan’s nude jumpsuit and Balmain’s black flare pant with a bralet were a personal favourite. Get an over the knee boot or a Kimono-like the gorgeous berry piece at Gucci. It’s all about being accented with feathers: feather skirts, hemlines and necklines in blush and jewel toned hues like Christopher Kane and Erdem. Finish the looks with low sleek ponytails and middle partings. Dewy high shine makeup and statement lips especially in crimson will continue AW14 like at Topshop Unique and Dolce. Pierced brows featured or use the summer to go nude with makeup like at Chloe, Lanvin and Victoria Beckham. So what will you be this summer a rock rebel, a romantic or a Seventies siren. See below to make your choice.
Spirit of the Seventies Summer
Let’s rewind back to the seventies with some Bohemian Vibes this season. Whether you want to take the trend literally like an episode of that 70s show? Ziggy Stardust or just a nod to the trend I thinks its all about giving the 70s a modern makeover. There was so much to choose from fringing florals and flamboyant flares from Tom Ford to Prada to Louis Vuitton's vintage inspired prints and crushed velvet. Tom Ford’s take was darker with models flares and mini tunics.
At Gucci,Pucci, Alberta Ferretti, Valentino we saw romantic bohemian silhouettes, hippie fringing, luxurious suede, Navajo inspired graphic prints. The peasant blouse adorned in embroidery or Native American prints made an appearance also. Looks were adorned with Moccasin boots, fringed gladiators complemented the 70's mood. The trouser shape was hip-hugging flares, to bell bottoms, in minimalist tones and rich velvets. Veronica Etro conveyed what Etro does best- free-spirited layers of clothes, mixed with the house paisley toppled with lashings of suede fringe. The references were all there even the contemporary brands Phillip Lim, Anna Sui and even more dramatically at Alice + Olivia – in jumpsuits, crochet knits and suede outerwear.
Ready to wear Denim
Denim had a high fashion moment this season, designers kept it fresh with new ideas -tailoring, trenches and detailing. Burberry did it best with cropped jackets adding a tougher edge to Burberry's tulle and ice cream pastels. Aquatic tulle looks were teamed with cropped denim jackets with contrasting details on the collars and fur adorned trims. Fashion houses incorporated denim into the bigger trends-1970s ala Gucci or sporty at Michael Kors. Even Fendi did denim on the runway for the first time ever.
Chloe focused on the denim dress, keeping it short but balanced with long sleeves, and oversized pockets on denim shirts teamed with high legged tanned lace up gladiators. On the runways, embellished denim dresses and the seemingly grotesque double denim look was actually pretty covetable so luxe you’d unexpectedly want to own them. Dolce & Gabbana embellished boyfriend jeans, Cavalli's ripped denim to Gucci tie Lace-front denim dress and darker indigos at Bottega Veneta. Stella’s denim drenched looks were more relaxed and layback with culottes and midi dresses. Isabel Marant , in contrast to the usual seas of indigos and blues went for colour and print.
SS15 was about being ultra feminine yet that does not have to be stereotypically romantic. Yes, there were flowing fabrics, sheer pieces; muted blushes and gray tones; some catwalks showed sugary tones with easy, free flowing frothy silhouettes e.g. Simone Rocha’s lilac tulle trenches. Pinks in all of its incarnations will be hot. From the dusky to bubblegum pinks. Nudes and whites were the standout colours in several collections. It was seen on outerwear i.e. silky duster coats at Stella. So yes, all these shades are typically associated with spring/summer season, but teaming with new silhouettes made it interesting.
It wasn’t all sickly sweet, sexier sheers were teamed with structured waistcoats and hard embroidered lace at Chloe and Givenchy. Bohemian romance was seen at Dries van Noten. Easy elegance was shown with ballet inspired separates at Bottega. Burberry’s classic trench was energized with bursts of sugary hues, whilst Christopher Kane focused on silks and pleated tulle from the hips and shoulders. There was a gorgeous focus on all things aquatic.
Mermaid-esque gowns and pieces ruled at the latter half of Valentino, mints and peaches hued gowns. Very Midsummer nights dream. Rodarte sent models with plunging necklines and asymmetrical hemmed eveningwear emblazoned with embellishments and feathers in seascape teals and greens. Erdem found the perfect balance of darker romance embroidered with botanics, feathers and Victorian lace structured dresses. Even the dramatic tendencies in evening looks, with gothic gowns Spidery lace at Kane were delicious. Covetable separates were accompanied with dainty ruffles and frills like Michael Kors blazer and transparent pleated skirt was a hero piece.Loose relaxed shapes with little embellishment as seen at Calvin Klein Halston Heritage,
Embellished, pleated, sequined, beaded, woven, feathers and even ropes: designers played with every texture. The SS15 runways were full of innovative play with surface, lace at Oscar de la Renta, Phillip Lim and latticework at Alexander Wang. Key designers and design houses, like Julian McDonald Ashish and Dolce & Gabbana were all about this trend, Balenciaga’s midi embellished white transparent dress was divine. Mini silhouettes, adding movement with fringing at Giambattista Vialli and Proenza Schouler were spectacular. Whilst Preen’s more tribal inspired beading and tassels were perfect for summer. Feathers are an emerging trend they were everywhere. From McQueen to Naeem Khan to Dsquared to Burberry Prorsum, not even textured accessories could hide with suede at Rykiel and Etro. Fringing on knits, accessories and footwear Thakoon and Tory Burch and suede at Derek Lam, Jason Wu. Lets not even forget the quilting, embossing, and crinkled hems. My favourite? Celine’s fringes
No surprise from Hedi Slimane’s Laurent and Givenchy. They proved spring summer dressing doesn’t mean you have to ditch black. Both channeled 70s rock’n’roll: with attitude- thigh-high splits, revealing cut-outs, sheer fabrics, made an impact. Versace embroidered cutouts with slicked back hair, Tom Ford barely there bralet was basically a strap. Lets not forget Givenchy’s high knee lace boots and Balmain’s lattice dress.
A nod to history
Erdem, Dior and Rochas looked to the past, particularly with Victorian botany, lace and ruffles. High-collared, button-up dresses bellowing midi skirts, innocent bows and lace detailing. Delicate white lace dresses were seen at Betsey Johnson, Michael Kors, Oscar De La Renta, Pamella Roland and Rebecca Minkoff shows. While the shapes and style were consistent the colour differed.
From Marni to Celine, the Japanese aesthetic had references drawn from both ancient and modern traditions. Intricate ﬂoral prints, with kimono silhouettes inﬂuenced by Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, from Alexander McQueen to Carven. But it was Mcqueen that convinced me to dip my toes into this trend. It’ll probably best if you incorporate this as an accessory like Celine’s bangles than into your whole look...
Flirty Fifties style perfected the ways to wear the crop top and even the gingham at Oscar de la renta was inspiring. Miu Miu's take on the trend was a little more literal. Bandeau tops were seen all over the catwalks- Badgley Mischka, Diane Von Furstenberg, and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Dior’s classic shape was modernized at Donna Karan, Jenny Packham, and Monica Lhullier
Wide and elogonated silhouettes
Lets go culotte crazy in any texture you desire in leather and suede, or even printed. Trousers got looser like at Tibi and Thakoon. Chanel’s look displayed great woman power dressing in loose fitted stripe navy suits.